The extraordinary quality of any Ralph Rucci collection is evident at first glance. But the real story this season was his use of fabrics, the thought behind the remarkable silhouettes and the complexity of the workmanship — the best of which is often not evident without a walk-through with the designer himself. “There is no theme here, except for me,” Rucci explained, adding, “My idea of beautiful clothes.” The details said it all: a sculpted leather cocoon jacket over a fur tunic with braided leather seaming and leather miniskirt; an intricately crafted leather shell; a Barguzin sable coat that was reversed to its raw pelts and featured Rucci’s own hand-painted calligraphy veiled in tulle. With all this, it was clear, the designer will always love his women sexy — case in point those ultrahot plastic high-heeled boots.

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