Fall was a solid collection for Derek Lam. Stocked with great clothes, the lot of it could go straight onto the sales floor. And that’s not a backhanded compliment meant to imply it was editorially ho-hum. Rather Lam worked a fashion-forward yet understandable look that felt very now — and the right amount of then, too, with a nod to mid-Nineties Prada.
At the core were chic, minimalist separates warmed up with American classics, such as a nice navy peacoat and cable knits, all of which were boosted by exceptional details and fabrics. Leather was a mainstay, whether on fitted baseball jackets with knit trims and streamlined shells, or as an accent, as in the black lambskin shoulders on a long ivory silk gown. It gave the collection a luxurious edge without turning hard. In fact, some of the most remarkable pieces featured twists on dainty motifs, such as a gorgeous black leather pencil skirt done with pink floral embroidery, and a T-shirt in graphic black-and-white paisley jacquard that looked like lace.