Halfway through Miguel Adrover’s show, the models began opening their handbags and throwing around bills of money. It was a cliché gesture, perhaps, but one that spoke volumes about Adrover’s rejection of the fashion system and the luxury world he’s returning to this season, after closing his business in 2004 and resurfacing three years later at eco-brand Hessnatur. With his strong collection, Adrover proved he hasn’t lost his thoughtful irreverence. Before the show, he said he wanted to forget all fashion reference points, thus he repurposed fabrics, rugs, sheets, old garments and other things he collected in his Majorca home, layering, draping and hand-sewing them into new looks. He reworked a leather coat from Alexander McQueen, who was his friend and mentor, into a dress; a ribbed tank top was paired with a skirt made from an Egyptian towel with a pharaoh motif. There were also several social and political nuances, i.e., a dress that combined American and Cuban flags, and, referencing his own past interest in Islamic culture, he turned two burkas into tops. It wasn’t exactly commercial, but still made for a beautiful, intense viewing experience, even if it left the audience with one crucial question: Now that he’s recycled much of his belongings, what will he do next season? We can’t wait to find out.

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