Naeem Khan looked to his native India for a glittering lineup of pieces with paisleys, swirls and Tilakas (a form of Indian body art) that took an army of craftspeople three months to embroider. Belted coats in silk faille or silk and wool tweed were embellished with metallic paisley embroidery and looked light enough to double as evening dresses. A handful of short frocks — one with tulle sleeves and mirror crystals, another with swirl beading and a fringed hem — were standouts. Less successful was the group of feather skirts. The palette featured mainly graphic combinations of white, black and gold, including a hand-painted abstract dot print. In terms of new shapes, there were few. Instead, Khan delivered his greatest hits: plunging necklines, caftans, jacket-and-full-skirt combos, single-shoulder gowns and head-to-toe beaded evening columns.

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