No girlie cliché went unchecked. There were fishnets, jewel-encrusted booties, poufs of tiered tulle, pastel furs and helmet hair tied with a jewel-encrusted bow. And that was just the tip of a major bauble motif that featured huge prints and embroideries of pendant brooches on jackets, skirts and sheathes. Like a Wall Street bonus before Dodd-Frank, the pretty excess of Oscar de la Renta’s fall collection was without limits.
What began with ritzy yet relative restraint (read, black) — a silk faille dress with three-quarter-length sleeves and a puffed skirt; a brocade coat with elaborate embroidery and a fox collar — soon swelled into a parade of pastels, tweeds and party frocks fit for princesses of all ages. There were short frills, such as an ice blue fit-and-flare minidress with paillette-and-feather adornment for the younger set, and a regal crushed velvet column in teal for the sophisticates.
Embellishment was all around, even by day. Ladylike suits came in gold lace jacquard and silvery metallic tweed. Pant looks worked the pastel side of sportif; one featured a pink fox vest over a silk blouse with jewel-encrusted sleeves and pink pants tucked into booties dripping with shaggy fur.
The visual exuberance swelled at night, when de la Renta showed a range of looks from sparkly sleek (a linear gown fully covered in graphic paillettes) to pure confection, his of gorgeous ballgowns with tulle skirts that just got bigger and bigger. Apparently, Oscar’s delightful bubble doesn’t burst.