In seasons past, Peter Som’s collection was typically a wild jumble of print and texture cooked up for a quirky uptown look. But for fall he downplayed the eclectic styling while turning his keen eye on color, which was a beautiful progression of white, camel, bottle green, rich burgundy and shocks of magenta, the latter on great patchwork furs.

Backstage before the show, Som cited inspirations such as Marlene Dietrich in her tuxedo with a little Brancusi and John Chamberlain mixed in, thus the silhouettes were sophisticated with architectural lines — dresses and jackets with peplums, and sleeves with angular drop shoulders that tapered to the wrist. That effect was strongest on short jackets but at times veered into over-exaggeration. Conversely, there were sheer nylon organza layering effects — Som’s ode to lingerie — to add a softness and shine to the lineup.

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