In just a few seasons, Olivier Theyskens has developed a clear signature for Theyskens’ Theory — ubercool with a street edge tempered by adult sophistication. This time, he downplayed his Goth impulses and amped up the glamour with glittering gold tweed coats and jackets that displayed his strong tailoring skills, as well as lovely metallic sweaters and ombré effects on denim and velvet. There were still some darker moments found in the black leather jackets, skirts and shorts, but they looked more soft than tough in Theyskens’ hands.

His evening, a pair of sober party dresses in particular, had the kind of moody Victorian lyricism that made him famous and that defined his work at Nina Ricci and Rochas. It’s great to see that romantic aesthetic now so much more accessible, yet still plenty strong.

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