Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 looked tougher than usual this season. Finding inspiration in the nomadic cultures of Central Asia, the collection was a mixture of ethnic pieces (capes, ponchos and harem pants) and Americana (parkas, hooded vests and long, striped pullovers) shown in brights and a gray-to-black palette. The designer’s way with loose and layered pieces made it all work so beautifully. Outerwear was the strongest, the best being a rich curly wool color-blocked coat.
For men, Yamamoto infused military and urban vibes, producing pieces like an elongated hybrid nylon bomber coat paired with baggy sweatpants and a printed scarf. It was a perfect example of the designer’s blend of Eastern influence and Western style.