True to his penchant for grandeur, Zac Posen delivered a dramatic lineup inspired by an ongoing fascination with chinoiserie and Japan. Short dresses, gowns and evening suits in red, gold, jewel tones and the occasional neutral were folded and seamed like origami paper to accentuate and flatter all the right curves. Other Eastern ingredients included rich floral jacquards and obi sashes. All the signature Posen silhouettes were there: peplum-waisted tops and jackets, flounced hems, sharp tailoring, a superslim waist and, yes, plenty of mermaid skirted gowns — however, a couple of the latter appeared too rigid for walking. There were some lovely dresses, including an understated number in alabaster peony jacquard and some simpler gowns with the aforementioned origami detail. In fact, Posen was at his best when he kept things relatively pared down. Contrarily, his indulgence in kimono sleeves and theatrical opera coats burdened some looks with excessive weight and pomp. That said, Posen’s loyal fans have plenty to look forward to.

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