Anthony Vaccarello is dexterous at using minimal fabric to maximum effect. The rising talent is carving out a name for his sparse thigh-skimming frocks paneled together from blocks of material that have attracted superbods such as model Audrey Marnay (seated front row) as fans. The fit felt a little less controlled than usual at times, however, and the injection of color — such as beetle-green lamé — a little overwhelming. His signature black versions still work best. More substantial elements likely to be picked up by the fashion crowd included navy satin military-inspired jackets, such as parkas with long tails, high-waist belted skinny pants and sexy minis decorated with black elastic and lacing that looked ready for a night out on the town.