Cédric Charlier wisely started with a clean slate for the launch his namesake collection, following the abrupt end of his tenure at Cacharel. So it was (mostly) out with his signature brushstroke prints of that era and in with minimal tailoring for his first showing with Italian licensee Aeffe SpA. The Belgian designer opened with a navy military-inspired overcoat that revealed, on closer inspection, insets of black shaved fur. In fact, texture was key in this collection, with felted wool, buttery faux leather, glossy PVC and a high-sheen polyester lending intriguing depth to his sparse silhouettes. Though informed by a masculine wardrobe, Charlier’s clothes espoused the female figure, with contrasting panels of fabric underlining the waist on a pencil skirt or on the torso of a body-conscious black dress. Key accents of copper were dotted throughout — from gleaming buttons and zippers on his stand-to-attention coats to slinky ankle-strap high heels.

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