Designer Ennio Capasa quite literally took a dark turn for fall with an almost-all-black Costume National lineup that played out against a black runway. Not surprisingly, the collection was heavy on leather, but not of the biker chic variety. Instead, Capasa shaped it into a slouchy suit and a draped sleeveless dress, as well as some pieces that mixed materials, including an appealing black wool coat with a leather panel hem. Capasa also experimented with asymmetric paneling techniques, mapping blocks of fabrics (cloth, patent and smooth leather) onto one another. It resulted in uneven lengths on jackets and dresses or unexpected folds on tops, which at times looked too complicated.