Futuristic films tinged with melancholy — particularly “Metropolis” and “Blade Runner” — have proved a gold mine of inspiration for designers this European season, and Elie Saab let their dark, urban spirit seep into his rich-lady clothes. Vangelis’ “Love Theme” from the latter film swelled on the soundtrack, and out strode a robotic army of models with blunt bangs and icy stares.
Karlie Kloss appeared first in a skirt suit with a jutting peplum, spliced in two shades of shimmering tweed. Saab’s fashion shows tend to unfurl by color, so more cement gray and asphalt followed: short capes or bomber jackets in glossy fur, and sexy luncheon dresses inset with cobweb lace or sprouting fluttering sleeves. A bit of sand came next: a belted, woolen coat with a full skirt; a slinky jersey gown that hugged the waist.
And finally, the show came to life with the red-carpet fare at which this Beirut-based couturier excels. A group of green goddesses yielded to more plausible colors — gold and silver — for an awards ceremony or night on the town. If an Oscar statuette ever came to life as a glamorous woman, she would surely strive to resemble Karmen Pedaru poured into that hourglass of sequins in sweeping, Art Deco rows.