Doing away with atmospheric, if not pretentious videos, Gareth Pugh instead bookended his fall show with a rain of black paper drops. Harmless confetti? Black rose petals? Ashes? Whatever they were meant to evoke, Pugh was clearly hoping to give his presentation a moody edge. Not that he needed a trick to remind people of his dark sensibility. The clothes (black or gray, leather and fur) spoke for themselves.

The lineup could have gone the way of some of his past fetish-y collections, but to Pugh’s credit, he toned things down considerably with several looks that actually had commercial appeal, at least by his standards. They included the fuzzy black fur coat opener, and several sharp-shouldered dresses with a leather bodice and a full fur skirt. A cinched leather-trimmed black coat with fur sleeves almost seemed tame and chic.

That’s not to say that Pugh didn’t deliver a little drama for his faithful customers. A gray-and-black illusion minidress with a billowing back train, and several other pieces with exaggerated pointy shoulder treatments, seemed destined for the likes of Daphne Guinness and Michelle Harper, who sat in the designer’s front row.

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