Giambattista Valli has always felt a level of comfort playing with surface elements, and since that’s now a major trend, it provided a good moment for the designer to explore the theme further. He did it via knits, beginning with the first exit, a cozy black-and-white heavy-gauge oversize sweater teamed with a simple black skirt over slim black pants. The look was surprisingly somber and almost mannish, at least for Valli, who is usually prone to sexier fare. He elaborated on the idea with a trompe l’oeil of the same knit on a charming belted dress that featured a braided yarn detail snaking around the neck and down its front. A black-and-white fur skirt mimicked the heavy knit of the cardigan it was paired with. Color came by way of prints and stripes in a burnt orange and red palette — often mixed and matched in the same piece, including a few belted floor-length evening dresses. They added a subtle touch of bohemian luxury and underscored the graphic feel of the collection.

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