When is a hoodie not a hoodie? When Julien David brings his luxury textiles to sportswear basics. His collection featured what appeared to be a gray sweatshirt dress, which was in fact made from double-faced knitted wool. The Tokyo-based French designer specializes in using interesting fabrics in a seemingly offhand manner and with a naïve eye befitting his Japanese clientele. Examples here included intarsia knitwear featuring a pattern of knives and a “yeti” wool fabric sprouting cartoony tufts. David contrasted masculine tailoring in houndstooth wool with voluminous short skirts. These came in everything from silvery silk voile to navy Tyrolean patterned jacquard, and epitomized a quirky brand of tomboy chic.

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