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A sartorial elegance with the right balance of whimsy and restraint defined Junya Watanabe’s beautiful collection — executed with strong tailoring and couturelike precision.

Watanabe made his mannish mood clear from the first exit, a formfitting coat in a men’s check. The designer continued with several cinched dresses in heavier cloths, such as a gray one with a subtle but graphic motif that he softened with red and black devoré sleeves, or a stunning checked coat with a dress that combined a structured gray bodice in a heavy cloth with a voluminous burnt orange skirt in crushed velvet, which had a rich effect.

Watanabe’s outerwear was equally strong, including several terrific trenches with volume, as well as a chic trench-cape and a few blazer coats, which looked as though he stitched together a fitted jacket and a skirt in the same fabric. The overall effect never seemed overworked, but was new and interesting — with a sophisticated charm.

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