Even the Magnolia cupcakes left on each seat couldn’t sweeten the irritating venue Humberto Leon and Carol Lim picked for their Kenzo show. Far, difficult to find and, although the Universite Pierre & Marie Curie is joyfully painted in colorful hues, the confusing, multistory escalator production had even model pro Karlie Kloss tweeting “Hope I don’t get lost on the runway” pre-show. She didn’t.

It was a different story, however, for Leon and Lim, the highly influential duo behind Opening Ceremony. After their spring hit full of playful innocence, the designers’ second season felt cacophonous. They started off well with several moss green pieces, including a chic, tweed-like jacket with an oversize fur collar and a matching pleated skirt, but their variations of a grape motif; mix and match of patterns, including several versions of graphic black-and-white checks, and high-waisted, floor-length skirts with front button details, felt clunky. To Leon and Lim’s credit, their mandate is to give once-dusty Kenzo a jolt, and in that respect, they may have succeeded, even if the overall impact left some feeling that a bolt of lightning had hit them.

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