Make mine a double. In a season where many designers are creating coats wide enough for two, Maison Martin Margiela applied its trademark deconstruction technique to the men’s suit, which morphed into everything from the aforementioned extra-wide coat to all-in-ones slit to the thigh on one leg. There were some fun trompe l’oeil tricks, like a trenchcoat with the sleeves sewn into its front pockets, which turned out to be a cape. And jacket collars were raised, their lapels joined at the front, to engulf half of the head. But on dresses and skirts assembled from a deconstructed kimono, the conceptual effort fell a bit flat.

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