With its nearly singular focus on weird and wild pantsuits, Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu collection looked born from the same agenda as the more audacious side of her Prada show. It’s been a while since the designer wove such a common thread between her two lines. But, as she explained after Miu Miu, pantsuits are “the only thing exciting to me after so many years of skirts and dresses.” With good reason: In an uncharacteristic display of extroversion, she ascended the stairs to the runway for her bow, showing off her slim physique in one of the black velvet suits from her Prada show. She looked great.
Whereas the glaring graphic patterns and tailored silhouettes of a couple of weeks ago were sleek, the Miu Miu clothes skewed more mannish and leisurely in a retro way. Jackets and matching ankle-length pants had roomy cuts, and were worn with buttoned-up blouses, scarves and ruffled, wide ties, all done in crazy clashing patterns and color combinations, including purple and brown, mustard and brown and head-to-toe brown. The lone alternative: shift dresses decked with gigantic mirrored embroideries that were the most feminine thing in sight.
The mannish looks felt plucked from tacky Seventies polyester style — by way of Prada’s own archive — as she immersed her guests in a vacuum of intentional bad taste, even installing wall-to-wall beige carpeting in her venue, and dared them to like it. Unlikely appeal? Not given Prada’s history of manipulating “ugly” in a wonderful way, and especially not when it came to accessories — neat doctor bags and kooky platform loafers and boots in psychedelic shades of python.