Nicola Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné scaled back on the theatrics for their Mugler collection, at least in terms of production. It was a smaller show sans Lady Gaga’s presence, whether live or via video, as was the case last season. Yet it was still an entertaining enterprise, if for different reasons — mainly that the onus rested solely on the clothes. In many ways, they were a progression from the sculpted square shoulders, peplums and slickly primitive motifs that Formichetti and Peigné have been working on during their brief revival of the company. Backstage before the show, Peigné said the inspiration was “insects, reptiles and animals,” represented in three parts. The first was all white, featuring jackets with giant, extra-long fur sleeves, fringed skirts and furry helmets; then came black and white dresses that had slim anatomical cutouts meant to emulate butterfly wings and scarabs, at which point, as Peigné said, “it turns very weird.” There’s no better word for these clothes, which felt more energetic and abstract than last season’s beige brigade. There was a sense of seeing Japanese animation come to life, particularly with the final group of “ninjas,” who emerged in a pack clad in all black with big shoulders and little below the waist, their faces partially obscured by sculptural hoods. They were fun to watch, which seems to be the big idea at the house of Mugler.

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