Pedro Lourenço sought to fuse city life with country ease, “an apocalyptic city and groomed country,” as he said backstage before his show, and also merged Eighties pop and Sixties couture to produce a collection with mixed results. The span of Lourenco’s nascent career has been consistent in its devotion to a square, futuristic silhouette, on which he experiments with fabric development and ambitious cuts. This season he favored coated linen that looked like slick patent leather and shiny, holographic paneling. Proportions were still cumbersome on boxy coats with dropped waists and trousers with flaps sewn on front to imply chaps, but Lourenco successfully softened things with sheer dresses done in neat photographic plaids that faded to black.

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