The type of woman Marco Zanini designs for can be hard to put your finger on. She’s a peculiar mix of retro classic and quirky that could be interpreted as a charming take on a girl who lacks fashion sense. All of that was in play at the Rochas collection, full of crafty, bookish types clad in ribbed sweaters belted over pleated midlength skirts, and silk tops and matching pants done in ethnic graphic prints that nipped at the heels of the “ugly pretty” that Prada set in motion. The colors were autumnally deep — purple, bronze, ink blue and mustard yellow — and the materials were rich — jacquards and chunky knits. Everything was stylishly tied together with nubby coats and eccentric shoes.
Yet while the collection was well done and could be broken up into solid commercial fare, Zanini offered little on his subject that felt new. What stood out was his maximization of modesty — hefty fabrics and covered-up silhouettes that mingled to a multiplier effect for the finale of gowns. Done in thick washed silks, and the grandeur of old couture volumes, they made for a defiant statement in eveningwear.