Chitose Abe’s second runway show on the Paris schedule was reflective of the steadily growing interest in her Sacai label. It attracted a healthy turnout of big retailers and editors, to whom Abe delivered a delightful rendition of her polished hybrid look. Tony, brass-buttoned military coats and colorful leather motorcycle jackets spliced with robust ruffles and layered peplums dominated this season. Some of them were bursting with blonde Mongolian fur, others with pinstripes and Prince of Wales checks. There were great shirtdresses decorated with a precise panel of shimmering paillettes down the front, and slim skirts that zipped open in the back to reveal a lacy slip. Abe’s treatment of the layers, splicing and deceptive trompe l’oeil had that magic touch of interpreting an intimidating style in a charming, understandable way.

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