For their first full collection for Vionnet, creative directors Barbara and Lucia Croce moved the focus from eveningwear to tailored day looks that reinterpreted house codes. The twin sisters used V-shapes not only on necklines, but flipped upside down as cutouts on the hem of dresses that spliced together fabrics of different weights, such as a red wool suiting with a nude organza. Tunics and coats opened along the spine in a deep pleat, while fur coats featured trompe-l’oeil effects, like a long-haired fox inlaid with sheared beaver to create the appearance of a stole. A black kimono-inspired jacket, paired with a cream silk shirt and anthracite gray pants, made a convincing statement for daytime. However, the same could not be said of the evening gowns, which mostly fell short on the “wow” factor. The sisters have done well to broaden Vionnet’s horizon. Now they need to make sure its former fans keeping coming back.

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