With more big names choosing to show in London – including Tom Ford and L’Wren Scott – the city is re-emerging as a fashion capital to be taken seriously. This includes a heightened focus on the new talents emerging from Louise Wilson’s MA course at Central Saint Martins.
The winner of the L’Oréal Prefessionel Creative Award was Eilish Macintosh, whose experiments with rope were shown twice during the show. The first time around, she knotted rope into cage structures that encased simple black jersey maxi dresses. There was a macramé-meets-bondage look to these, especially with provocative portholes located over and under bosoms, and in the center of buttocks. Her second outing showed rope used as exaggerated whipstitch edging, and to anchor loose gathers on PVC separates.
Also catching attention was the intricate chevron pleating in Babushka shapes by Jaimee McKenna; Marie Ryland’s gently sophisticated palette and textile explorations of men’s djellaba shapes; Elena Crehan’s fur-on-lace creations; Rachel Hewitt’s interestingly cut Ottoman pants; and Sadie Williams’ playful, geometrically embossed lamé cone dresses in silver, red and blue metallic with black leather accents.