Darkness fell on Erdem Moralioglu’s typically dainty and painterly floral garden for fall. It was a great collection, cast in shadows by veiling many of the designs in transparent black layers and by the predominant use of black overall.

The show opened with variations on proper lady silhouettes — slim dresses cut below the knee with long sleeves and high collars. They came as riffs on tweed suits diced up with transparent panels, ostrich feathers and metallic thread for a dose of that London verve everyone talks about.

The lean, rather prim silhouette allowed Moralioglu to decorate in light layers, adding on floral embroideries, feathers and shiny PVC treatments without sacrificing polish. Two of the best looks featured interesting use of black lace on illusion dresses that were traced and dissected around the shoulders, neck and waist with sheer panels. For all the black, there was a fine use of color, too — pale pink, burgundy and a single bright acid green used sparingly and to potent effect.

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