Huishan Zhang’s sparkling, dreamy collection looked as if it had been made by hand and was among the strongest outings so far in London this season. The designer took his cues from Mao Tse-tung’s famous boxy four-pocket jacket and from the sharp, geometric lines of Piet Mondrian paintings.

And while sharp A-line dresses had a futuristic-by-way-of-the-Sixties feel, the finishes were either soft or shiny. Some designs featured delicate needle felting on top of black or white lace, while others shone with tiny cornflower blue or gunmetal crystal stripes and panels. “I used the Mao shapes to give power back to women. They’re leader suits — but with femininity,” said the young Chinese designer.

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