Once London’s prince of prints, Jonathan Saunders has been steadily moving away from pattern play, all but abandoning it for fall. Instead he favored womanly drama, showing Fifties silhouettes with a perverse streak — fit-and-flare dresses with molded bustiers that had a shiny black coating to give the effect of patent leather, and slim, off-the-shoulder satin dresses with bra straps and cups peaking out. They highlighted the hips, bust and waist while challenging the traditional lady genre and toying with good taste.

Many of the plainer looks were classically pretty, with beautiful coats, such as a simply tailored brushed blush alpaca style, and a red V-neck sweater tossed over a pink and orange lace dress. Saunders has often traded on the Forties and Fifties, but shifting the focus off his signature print work and onto the edgy side of the retro woman — something other designers, such as Prada, regularly ply — gave the collection a generic air.

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