The designer swapped the sweetness and light of previous seasons with a darker, vampier look. A series of dresses and skirts in delicate silk jacquards with embroidered cutouts and contrasting underlayers were a reminder of van der Ham’s expertise in combining fabrics and textures. Precision-cut trousers looked great on the catwalk, all low-cut, cropped and super-skinny — although women may have trouble sitting down in them.

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