Sir Paul Smith helped his audience forget the chaotic entry to his show venue — the soaring central atrium of the Tate Britain —by sending out a peppy, color-drenched collection with a whiff of the brash Eighties. While the designer experimented with some minidresses in graphic stripes and gleaming metallics, the men’s wear-inspired looks were the strongest: bathrobe-easy wool coats with bat-wing sleeves; handsome bicolor blazers, and sexy, tapered trousers that zipped over white boots that are meant to be worn after Labor Day. The offbeat combinations — purple jacket, fuchsia top, rust pants — telegraphed the show’s jaunty, devil-may-care spirit. Even ruffles on silk blouses were as unstudied as excess piecrust, coiling around each arm or bunched up on only one side.

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