Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s fall collection was a study in deliberate contradictions — hard versus soft, edgy versus classic — which played out in mannish tailoring accented with zippers and contrasted with softness, whether fluid shirts or feminine dresses. Fusing two opposing ideas is a familiar M.O. these days, suited to Preen’s particular brand of tough luxury, yet for the most part it fell flat in this collection.
Working mainly in a palette of red and black, the designers spliced together looks, showing a shirt that was lean and straight in front, yet full and soft in the back; or tailored pants with a zippered peplum hanging off the hips. The ideas didn’t blend; they bumped into each other.
Things coalesced in a more interesting way in the finale looks embellished with bright crystals in floral compositions. They worked as a playful intersection of good taste and bad.