A charming ode to her elders, Simone Rocha’s fall collection drew on her grandmothers — one Irish, the other Chinese. It was not a cross-cultural blend but, rather, a modern fashion girl’s take on ladylike tradition rendered with wit and traces of nostalgia.
Rocha opened with a peachy mesh series, the best of which was a new twist on a suit in a short jacket with trim, rounded shoulders and a miniskirt with a pleat of volume in the back. The look was more grown-up than usual yet retained her quirky naïveté, especially in terms of fabric choices. The designer has a thing for synthetic-looking materials handled with offbeat grace, such as a crisp shirt traced with a yellow faux fur trompe l’oeil bustier, or a lean sheath in nude crinoline with knit embroidery at the bust.