“Sensuality,” “very feminine” and “a little fragile” was how Alberta Ferretti described her collection backstage preshow. The designer was making a deliberate point here, homing on what she felt was “authentic” to her DNA (read: soft romance and femininity).

The result was a confident collection of lovely clothes demonstrated with subtlety and at times playfulness, rendered via some impressive workmanship, from reembroidered lace to decorative floral adornments executed with the right amount of control.

For the most part, Ferretti worked two silhouettes that she said were signature during her early years: straight to the floor, and a shorter version more suited for the cocktail hour. A white silk blouse was teamed with a long black skirt and tied in a bow at the waist with a black velvet belt; a tuxedo jacket was cinched similarly and shown with a sweet pleated tulle skirt. Equally pretty were several lush velvet dresses in jewel tones, most worn with flat shoes to add to the somber sensuality.

While at times the show felt repetitive with too many variations on the same idea, Ferretti made up for it with ample charm. As the designer put it, “I like the idea of natural elegance.”

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