Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi indulged in their playful side this season with a collection inspired by “Alice in Wonderland.” Taken literally, this translated into playing card motifs, with hearts printed on silk and embroidered in jet beads, and dresses featuring curvy front panels shaped like inverted spades.

But the designers insisted they were less interested in the innocent young girl who falls down the rabbit hole than the older and wiser Alice who emerges on the other side. “We wanted to play with the ironic aspect of the fairy tale,” Aquilano said backstage. Hence, flirty lampshade skirts and peplum tops vied for attention with more grown-up fare, such as boxy men’s tweed jackets belted at the waist and a chic navy bouclé wool coat embroidered with black sequin squares. Running throughout was a deep sense of craftsmanship and exquisite attention to textiles, but by trying to cater to mother and daughter alike, the designers might run the risk of confusing them both.

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