“Well dressed during the day” is how Brunello Cucinelli described his fall collection. He made the point with luxurious fabrics, details and rugged touches that sometimes leaned toward androgynous. These ideas aren’t exactly new, but Cucinelli evolved his aesthetic, starting with the palette. Typically comfortable in the oatmeal range, the designer added a lovely depth by moving into darker hues of rich grays, burgundies and greens. He also played with new fabrics, bonding, for instance, cashmere with Neoprene to give tailored jackets and skirts a more structured look, while metal sequins and studs added to the dressier daytime theme, especially nice on a cashmere, bouclé and mohair sweater.

Equally chic was Cucinelli’s use of fur — i.e., a chic Persian lamb for a vest and motorcycle jacket, and a sheared mink in a diamond detail for a coat.

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