Move over, Miuccia and Marc; there’s a new Rei Kawakubo fan in fashionville. With his fall Emporio Armani show, Giorgio Armani seemed to hint at Kawakubo’s influential two-dimensional collection, most notably with his last group — slightly stiff velvet dresses with exaggerated skirts. Homage or not, they looked lovely in dark brown, purple and green, with a rich textural depth.
So too did the pretty range of dusty hues Armani used for the rest of the lineup: soft pinks, yellows, blues and greens. “I wanted to lighten up winter, which is generally made up of too many dark colors and materials that are too hot,” Armani said during a press conference. He combined those tones throughout, from graphic color-blocked cardigans to the light-blue suit in a pink leaf motif.
He also worked in a distinct Twenties theme with his elegant proportions and cloche hats that topped many of the looks. Some Asian prints were injected as well; an elaborate one he used on a dress-pant combo felt Indian in its motif. If the collection was at times disjointed, the lovely soft touches Armani is revered for were still there. As he put it, this was about “a more innovative romanticism.”