Hitchcock heroines were the underlying inspiration for Ermanno Scervino’s collection, billed as an ode to the discreet charm of the bourgeoisie. A sequence of looks in prim gray flannel set the tone, but the fabric’s masculine connotations were counterbalanced by feminine tailoring, such as draped necklines on suit jackets and curving hourglass waists on coats. A sprinkling of Swarovski crystals lit up the collar of a burgundy angora sweater and the cuffs of a midi-length knit dress. Multistrapped shoes, long leather gloves and mink foulards tied around the head gave this tightly controlled lineup a sexual frisson.

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