Program notes for Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi collection proclaimed “a contemporary rereading of fur.” That meant a feisty treatise on graphic flash delivered with an ultracool, faux-aggressive attitude. Setting the mood: the models’ tough-girl Mohawks dyed in multipastels that often matched their coats.
The first looks out were terrific. Mink coat, suit and skirt were all sternly cut but in fanciful, complicated inlays of brown, white, pink and red. Graphic motifs, some referencing athletic uniforms, continued in the big white arc outlines on jackets and coats as well as a half-and-half beauty — cashmere on one side and mink on the other.
Karl being Karl, the ideas came fast and furious, most unified by their precision silhouettes. A black matte croc jacket threw off moody edge while a pair of vibrant, round-shouldered toppers recalled Eighties’ outer-borough overstatement. There were shades of Siouxsie Sioux, Pierre Cardin, cave warriors playing dress-up and two fab cutaway navy shirt jackets (one cashmere, one leather) over white car-wash skirts. And there were marvels of technique: leather that mimicked fur, mink-and-fox combos that mimicked animal camouflage.
Finishing it all? Why, more fur, of course, on mufflers, shoe flaps and linings, flashy wristbands, the arms of sunglasses. And yes, Silvia Fendi worked her own magic with the bags, showing countless inventive versions of those hand-crafted Selleria beauties.