From bed to bath and beyond: Angela Missoni stretched the house’s knitwear legacy into a lounge-y direction for fall with a collection built on slinky tank dresses, languid dressing-gownlike coats and pajama-soft tailoring.
The first exit — a robe-style knit slipping off one shoulder and partly fastened with a ribbon, revealing a sheer cardigan and satin trousers underneath — announced the theme, with a sizable debt to Haider Ackermann, the king of luxe dishabille.
Outerwear was generous and cozy in fuzzy fabrics, including luscious cashmere numbers dotted with strips of mink. By contrast, most of the knitwear was dazzlingly light — almost as translucent as hosiery on the sleeves of some shift dresses, or as panels on others to expose a shoulder here, a flash of leg there.
There was a sporty undercurrent, reinforced by the pounding techno soundtrack and the breakneck pace of the models. Long tube dresses etched the body not only with their clinging shape, but with patches of meshlike transparency and sexy racer backs. Vaguely Sixties shifts came in flesh-toned openwork knits layered over vivid silks.
Typical graphic patterns — zigzags and broken stripes — were used sparingly, putting the accent on neutrals, frosty pastels and flashes of lapis and coral.
The show notes offered few clues to this at times puzzling collection, citing “ethereal slippery outfits…as soft and warm as pashminas.”