As Derek Lam’s contemporary collection grows, he and his design director, Elizabeth Giardina, have worked to define the customer, who they see as modern and worldly, as Giardina said, but most of all, “natural.” They eased up on the bold prints of the past few seasons to focus on texture, working strong outerwear in nubby wools and rich faux ponyskin — the former on a thick blazer with a wrap cummerbund effect, the latter on classically tailored silhouettes. The fuzz factor played out on sweatshirts in interesting velvet and pony fabrications, as well as brushed mohair knit sweaters and dresses. The knits came in gray and ivory colorblocking, with pink and blue undertones that gave a nice softness and depth to the palette. While the clothes were about a quiet, casual sophistication, Lam and Giardina added gusto with accessories, such as flat, snakeskin-printed ponyskin boots and color-blocked bags in rust and forest green.

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