Mark Badgley and James Mischka found an ideal muse, many of them, actually, in the women of Alfred Hitchcock’s films, including Grace Kelly, Tippi Hedren and Kim Novak. The looks were most arresting when kept unembellished or rendered with controlled glamour, à la the smoking, although pairing them with scarves at the neck as Raf Simons did for his spring Dior collection was a styling mistake. One might recall Madame Grès when the designers sent out their beautifully simple, one-shoulder gowns in oxblood and black matte jersey.

Day and evening were bridged with lovely jeweled cashmere twinsets, one in black over a full red-and-black damask skirt, another in taupe with a smoky metallic tweed pencil skirt. They would have done a Hitchcock heroine proud.

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