Bibhu Mohapatra looked to Man Ray’s images to inform his fall collection. “I didn’t want to do just a straightforward Thirties silhouette,” said the designer backstage. Instead he looked to the elements of shadow, geometry and the ethereal nature of evening gowns, filtering his signature look through the photographer’s lens.

For day, graphic, form-fitting dresses and top-and-skirt combos looked great — a number of them featured a Florentine mosaic pattern in differing scales and sizes. Waists were cinched, and the play of pattern and color contrasts spoke to Mohapatra’s inspiration.

Evening skewed decidedly more romantic with draped and beaded gowns. While a few of them didn’t exactly represent the designer’s modern sensibility (a gray embroidered number missed the mark), fans should appreciate the designer’s take on the Thirties, i.e., the standout black-beaded eyelash-lace gown.

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