In the past few seasons Brood’s Serkan Sarier has shown a keen eye for prints, not only picking original and appealing patterns, but making highly saturated, colorful ones look energetic yet light. He pulled it off again, this time developing a beautiful, wintery white-based floral that show notes described as “the idea of flowers and thistles covered in snow.” Sarier had been looking at traditional black-and-white Op Art work and a piece by Wade Guyton, and thinking about couture’s linear shapes of the Sixties and A-line volume of the Fifties. He used these traditional volumes in combination with the performance-sport references he loves — zippers, hoods, drawstrings — to explore a more classic, covered-up side.

The models, standing in a kind of checkerboard formation on the black-and-white floor of the Gramercy Park Hotel, looked like a collection of chic, folkloric dolls. Two of the best looks proposed novelty for day and evening: a trimly tailored gray melton jacket with big lapels lined in the white floral print worn with a pleated gray skirt that was also spliced with the print, and an empire gown with a skirt that was gathered and drawn up in the front like a parachute.

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