After 30 years in business, Dennis Basso’s anniversary show made it abundantly clear that he has become more than a furrier. His eveningwear collection for fall was just as strong as those delightfully indulgent toppers for which he’s known. Winning looks included pretty long-sleeve lace sheaths, full-skirted short dresses in plaid taffetas and graceful gowns in hand-embroidered lace or tulle. When Basso did use furs, he often worked them sparingly. Shoulder wraps came in a fox-and-velvet mix while a reversible sable vest looked chic over a silver plaid-and-tweed sheath.

Yet a Basso show is never complete without his major outerwear. This time a slate blue chinchilla anorak and an evergreen sable coat were perfect examples of the designer’s new lighter touch. His only misstep was when he included some armorlike alligator skin on coats and vests. While it worked on his totes, it felt out of sync with the romantic and sensual feel of the show.

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