Derek Lam made quick work of what he called “elevated American style” for fall, showing a cool and concise 27-look lineup that combined elements of the artisinal and classic in a minimal union. The color palette of ivory, navy, camel and burgundy worked on rich, double-faced fabrics like satin, plus furs and leather, set a tone of understated luxury.

Lam paired classic investment pieces, such as beautiful outerwear, with elegant novelty via graphic, second-skin tops. The simple coat that opened the show was a forever piece, as was a toggle duffel coat, both shown in camel double-faced wool cashmere. There were recurring elements of the craftsy, like patchworks done in leather and wool jersey, crochet and a thick textured lace used on a poncho dress. Ponchos and fringe trims on suede dresses make the word “hippie” tempting, but Lam’s ladies were the picture of chic.

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