“The weather in this world is so insane,” said Michael Kors a few days ago, referring specifically to a 16-ply cashmere sweater that he’ll sell like hotcakes in Miami, but also rehashing his Hurricane Sandy experience. Kors and the rest of the downtown fashion elite became ritzy refugees at The Mark hotel on the Upper East Side (poor things). While taking shelter uptown, Kors started thinking about “urban survival” while noting that it seemed every other Park Avenue woman he saw was dressed for the gym. “Where is all of your money spent?” he wondered, concluding that when his clients are not spending on SoulCycle series and two-a-days with the Pilates instructor, they’re shelling out for statement outerwear. Thus, the merger of rampant athleticism and luxury coats on Kors’ fall runway. He binged on the sporty and the polished with blaring colors, cobalt blue and “taxicab” yellow shown against slick black in exaggerated proportions that varied between performance and ladylike. An oversize yellow melton peacoat was worn over a slim black cashmere skirt. A slouchy, rubberized black sweatshirt knit was paired with a classic full skirt improbably cut in electric blue perforated felt.
As for the relentless camouflage (sometimes in blue, white and gray mink) and safety orange motifs, well, it’s not out of the question that a Kors client might find him or herself in the woods during deer hunting season. In all seriousness, the rare instance that the orange worked was on a men’s puffer.
Elsewhere, Kors toughened up his men’s wear with camo prints and black leather. Voluminous outerwear with exaggerated shoulders was the overriding silhouette, beefing up a double gabardine chesterfield and an athletic-inspired bomber jacket.
The show ended with a superwoman moment via the lean, mean bustier dresses with leather busts and gowns sporting cutaway parachute skirts. With the music thumping, the shocks of brights and some of the models sporting shielded sunglasses, the lineup had the upbeat jolt of a 5-hour Energy, although the brief interim of relatively classic tailored donegals — pencil skirts and fitted jackets — provided a smooth and calming high.