During a preview in his Gramercy Park design studio, Narciso Rodriguez cited a fall trip to São Paolo, Brazil, that coincided with the city’s Art Biennial as his main inspiration, particularly the graphic work of the late Brazilian artist Lygia Clark. “I was taking pictures and we put them all up,” Rodriguez said. “We started to hone in on the most inspiring things.”
He channeled those things into his own codes — “always sports, action, movement,” he said — for a lineup, which, while lacking some of the beauty and sensuality that made Rodriguez’s terrific spring so memorable, still evolved some of the same concepts, like the collaging of fabrics and surface embellishments, often with striking results.
Rodriguez started off with a black sleeveless wool top with pants and an angular-cut suit, both featuring a white flaplike detail at the waist. The look may have owed a debt to Helmut Lang, but it still made a strong statement of minimalism that the designer is known for. He also included some terrific tailored outerwear — a languid, bonelike embroidered white wool coat, and a chic sculpted brown one shown with an orange top and royal blue pants, the latter’s hue matching the coat’s edging.
Throughout, Rodriguez demonstrated his precise construction techniques. He cut fabrics into triangular shapes and layered them for a lovely slipdress with a green top and blue skirt, and a bustier dress with a black bodice and blue-and-cream skirt. They were at once sexy and elegant. Rodriguez’s use of laser-bonding technique was a particular highlight: Two body-conscious dresses read perforated materials but were actually worked in a combination of crepe and silk charmeuse. The effect was strong, optical and arty.