For Richard Chai’s women’s show, where Maggie Grace and Christina Ricci stirred up some front-row buzz, the designer explored a decidedly more grown-up, polished look than in past seasons. Yet the pared-down silhouettes, worked in a mostly dark palette, lacked Chai’s familiar energy. Men’s wear plaids were a leitmotif, shown on tailored suits, jackets and slim, understated dresses. The outerwear was a highlight, especially the hooded bomber in an abstract floral print and a long, beige oversize coat with a drawstring waist. The pop of purple here and there was refreshing, most notable on a bright sequined shirt worn under a tailored tweed jacket.

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