With jazz playing in the background at his Lincoln Center debut, Steven Alan was in a sentimental mood, looking to the effortless style of greats like John Coltrane and Miles Davis. “I grew up here in New York,” said Alan. “So that ease of wearing a T-shirt under a suit jacket or a casual bomber jacket with trousers felt right.” His women’s looks leaned boyish with jaunty pantsuits and slouchy cashmere turtlenecks layered over shirtdresses and slim pants, all paired with Chelsea boots and wedges, and structured bags and backpacks.

The designer’s men’s wear included suede bomber jackets, tuxedo suits and tailored sweatpants — which he called his “new jean” — that blended seamlessly with traditional Alan staples like sport shirts and skinny khakis.

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